Rosa Organics uses oils that are complex in composition. This means that they contain a plethora of nutrients that would require a bit of this and a bit of that in other products.

The benefit of using products with fewer ingredients, and this applies to natural as well as synthetic, is being able to identify something that may not agree with your skin. Also, we at Rosa make absolutely sure that we have products that suit normal skins, dry, sensitive skins and oily skins. The downside to using such superior ingredients is the cost. But you know that old adage? If a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well.

Before moving on to Rosa Oils let me discuss Marula Oil as a point of reference or comparison if you will. This is a local oil and a good one. However, it is very high in Oleic Acid (Omega 9) and has no other polyunsaturated or monounsaturated compounds. Although it does contain sterols and antioxidants (see below). Oleic acid is good because it is moisturizing and firming. Where it is not so good, for certain skins, is if the carrier oil is top-heavy in Oleic Acid. Acne-prone skins will not enjoy this because it is too rich. Oleic is ideal for firming and moisturizing if it sits at a rating of say 15% – 40% and is balanced with Linoleic Acid. To give an example:

Marula has an Oleic rating of 70-78%, with Linoleic Acid sitting at only 4-7%, and Linolenic at 0.1 – 0.7%. It does, however, have tocopherols and sterols and procyanidins, this latter is a powerful antioxidant. Marula Oil, therefore, is good for older people or young women/men who have very dry skins/skins lacking elasticity.

Now let’s look at what we use?

Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosehip Seed Oil has a Linoleic Acid rating of 41-51%: Oleic Acid 13-15%: Linolenic 27-38%. Inlay terms Omega 6, Omega 9 and Omega 3 respectively. Omega 6 and Omega 3 are essential fatty acids and are vital for good skin health. Reason? They are finite and need to be applied topically or in our diet to maintain healthy levels. No EFAs in your skin = No penetration* of product. Yes, even the La Mer’s and La Prairies and any other costly preparation. So Good Business would be to have a product containing EFAs. At least one such product. In Rosa Speak, this would be Rosanique or Rosa for Men. Very few oils have both Essential Fatty Acids. Raspberry does. And this is to be found in Rosa Silhouette. More later.

Penetration differs from absorption in that it only penetrates the stratum corneum, or outer layer of the epidermis, to the basal layer which is the last layer of the epidermis and is where the cellular activity takes place. Absorption is when a product enters the bloodstream.

A further benefit of Rosehip Seed Oil is the comedogenic* rating of 1. This makes it ideal for all skin types, including oily skins. Never mind the fact that the high Linoleic rating in rosehip seed oil helps to improve acne-prone skins. It has been found that people who suffer from acne contain very little Linoleic (Omega 6) in their skins.

Comed0genic ratings are from 0 – 5. 0= no clogging of pores. 1 = low risk and 5 = avoid if you have oily or sensitive skin. Coconut Oil, for example, has a Comedogenic rating of 4 so do not use it on your face if you suffer from outbreaks.

Where Rosehip Seed Oil scores big time is that in addition to a well-balanced composition of natural fatty acids, it contains some tocopherols* (700-1100 ppm), Lycopene and a very active form of Vitamin A, Trans Retinoic Acid. Trans Retinoic Acid is the natural equivalent of Tretinoin. It is vital to maintaining healthy, youthful skin because it is known as a “cell communicator”. In other words, it instructs the cell to repair itself by reducing inflammation, encouraging the production of healthy skin substances (collagen) and inhibiting substances that cause collagen to break down. The most well-researched cell-communicating ingredient in skincare is Vitamin A. Peptides are also cell communicators but Vitamin A still tops the list.

*Tocopherols and Tocotrienols are natural forms of Vitamin E. Synthetic Vitamin E has absolutely no benefit whatsoever. Taken in capsule form or applied to the skin. Trans Retinoic Acid is similar to Tretinoin which is found in Renova and Retin A. Trans Retinoic Acid is contained in a fatty acid compound and is therefore safe, but just as effective as Tretinoin. Synthetic Vitamin A can burn your skin if strong concentrations are applied without introducing the product slowly.

Raspberry Seed Oil.

This is similar to rosehip seed oil in its physical or chemical characteristics but the Vitamin A content is replaced by powerful anti-oxidants and polyphenolic compounds.

Oleic – 12-16%: Linoleic – 50-60%: Linolenic 19-27% Tocopherols 1500-3000ppm,(Alpha and Gamma). The polyphenol compounds are supposed to give protection from the sun of 30 – 48 SPF but I don’t buy that. The oil is not viscous enough. While rich and nourishing, it is light textured and penetrates easily and quickly. Where it does help however is by protecting the basal layer of the epidermis which is where the damage will occur. Raspberry Seed Oil is a good additive to a natural sunscreen but not as a stand-alone. Chilean Hazelnut Oil does a far better job (Rosa Protégé) because on its own it offers day to day sun protector of about 10 – 15 SPF. Added to a sun product, which we do have and which includes Zinc Oxide and Beeswax, it offers 25-30 SPF. This product feeds and protects. It is available only on request.

Cucumber Seed Oil

This is a spectacular oil because it is high in phytosterols *(4000 – 5000) and contains Tocotrienols which is the most effective form of Vitamin E. Tocotrienols are much more powerful than tocopherols. Cucumber Seed Oil contains Linoleic (60-68) making it excellent for acne-prone skins. Oleic comes in at 9-18%. Cucumber Seed Oil also has a cocktail of vitamins, notably Vitamin B. This oil is superb for treating the eye contour area (Rosa Perfection) .

Rosa for Men is an outstanding product in this respect. This contains Rosehip Seed Oil, Cucumber Seed Oil and Litsea Cubeba. What this means is that it feeds, repairs (acne scarring ) hydrates and in time balances skin that produces an excess of sebum.

*Phytosterols, also called plant sterols, are natural compounds found in plants, fruits and vegetables. When phytosterols are applied to the skin, the cell membrane structure is strengthened which helps to reduce and prevent inflammation in the skin. This also improves the metabolism process within the skin, leading to increased elasticity and regeneration benefits. It is reported that phytosterols also have an anti-ageing effect on the skin, by stopping the decline in collagen production that is caused by sun exposure and encouraging new collagen production.

Chilean Hazelnut Oil

Here we have the edge on almost all products available in South Africa. One or two may have crept in without my knowledge because it would make Good Business sense to use Chilean Hazelnut oil in cosmetic preparations. Not only for its sun protection but also because it contains Palmitoleic Acid which is pivotal in preventing the skin from ageing too rapidly. Chilean Hazelnut Oil contains 20-27% Palmitoleic Acid, with a penetration rate of probably 10-15%. Note that just because something has a high rating, it doesn’t necessarily mean that your skin (digestive system) will absorb that much. Each person is different meaning that the uptake differs too. Oils beat creams hands-down in this respect because the molecular structure (size) of an oil molecule will ensure that penetration does occur.

Natural products differ from synthetic equivalents because your skin has an innate intelligence and will only take what it needs from a natural product. Synthetic products bombard your skin and this is where problems arise in reactivity. Synthetic products make use of synthetic chemicals to allow for penetration into the skin. You need a chemical, you see, for penetration. Natural oils are also chemicals.

Palmitoleic Acid is at its highest concentration in young adults and dies off as we age. It is a powerful anti-oxidant which is an essential ingredient in skincare. Palmitoleic Acid is particularly effective in replenishing and rejuvenating dry/or mature skins. It is moisturizing and firming and when applied directly to the skin increases the triglyceride concentration in the lipid barrier of the skin. Inlay terms this means that it strengthens and protects the skin’s natural barrier preventing moisture loss and protecting it from toxic invasions. Chilean Hazelnut Oil (Gevuina Avellana) has lipid chemistry that makes it well tolerated by the skin. It is very good for dermatitis, eczema and secondary bacterial infections. This makes is a good healer as well as a protector and rejuvenator.

Anti-oxidants are in the top three categories that make a skincare product effective. One anti-oxidant is not enough, however, and an elegant cocktail of anti-oxidants in a product will make it impressive. Rosa Protégé is such a product. Not content with the superior anti-oxidant benefits of Palmitoleic Acid, Rosa Protégé contains Clove Essential Oil (clove is the most potent of all anti-oxidants, beating berries hands down) and Thyme Essential Oil which is also a powerful anti-oxidant. Thyme has antimicrobial properties, and contains Vitamin K, making it an excellent bruise remedy.

An antioxidant is measured on an ORAC – Oxygen Radical Absorption Capacity – Scale. Clove Essential Oil has the highest of all at a rating of 10 078 700. Thyme Essential Oil = 159 590

Before wrapping it up, the third most important element to making a skincare product effective is that it contains intercellular substances. These are ingredients that mimic the skin structure. Linoleic Acid is one such ingredient. Intercellular substances are those ingredients that exist naturally in skin and work to hold skin cells together. A dry environment, sun damage, irritation, inflammation and age all serve to reduce the presence of these substances in the sin. Intercellular substances will help to keep the layers of the skin whole, resilient and in good shape. Linoleic Acid is to be found in all Rosa Organics products in different concentrations. Other intercellular substances are triglycerides, glycerin, lecithin, phospholipids, hyaluronic acid, and sodium PCA. These are essential for assisting the skin to function normally.

In summary, because I did get totally carried away in discussing the chemistry in skincare, a skincare product is only as good as what is in it, and how these ingredients help your skin to function, or “act younger”. Any skincare product that claims to have anti-ageing properties should absolutely contain an elegant mix of antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients and intercellular substances. These assist in maintaining a normal level of hydration; will build collagen; reduce skin discolourations and prevent cellular damage.

And this is why our products stand head and shoulders above skincare in a comparable (or higher) cost category. Each variant has been carefully designed to contain the correct balance of nutrients to obtain an optimal result in the short, medium and without doubt, in the long term.

So saying, those of you who have stood firm in using Rosa Organics products over the years know GOOD BUSINESS when you meet it. Right now this Good Business is going to ensure that a recessionary economy or not, your skin will not have to downgrade to cheaper (ineffective) products. You get a serious bang for your buck at Rosa Organics.

Let me get onto seeing the Pressies are packed and ready to roll. I am anticipating a run of the Rosa Warehouse…..

South Africans, like the Chinese, know all about Good Business.

Until next time….
Lynn Schultz